Presenting: The R.A.L.A. (Riles' Arapiles Lifetime Achievement)

To celebrate being 23, I have made myself a list of 23 dream climbs at Mt Arapiles that I hope to send. This is my be all and end all, and I will not rest until all 23 of these climbs are sent. I must achieve these in my lifetime. I call this list the "Riles' Arapiles Lifetime Achievement".

So far, I've ticked off 2 out of 23 climbs - Milk Blood and Glory Rodent. They were both awesome jamming challenges. I'm all about crack climbs and jamming, so you'll see a lot of those on my list. But I've thrown in some curveballs to test myself - long, short, multi-pitches, single pitches, powerful, technical, mental, and endurance based climbs. It's a good mix of everything!

I know this will take a while, but I'd love for you all to come along with me. I'll be posting about each step as we go!

Fog over the Bluffs, on a frosty July morning.

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Reaper (22) ★★★: Henry Barber, 1975

One of the mega classic lines freed by Henry Barber during his 41 day trip to Australia. A 2 pitch climb, best lead in a single pitch, it follows a curving sickle shaped crack, that traverses left along some weird and interesting jams.

Glory Rodent (22) ★★: Kevin Lindorff 1976 (Sent!)

This serious overhung crack is one to write home about. A short but punchy and technical sequence of jams up the guts of the king rat wall. One of two that I have sent so far. Super fun problem!

Roping up, getting ready for my third burn (and send go) on Glory Rodent (22)

Tackling the crux, with Amshumaan Rakshith on belay.

Birdman of Alcatraz (23) ★★★: Kevin Lindorff.

A beautiful test-piece of climbing, considered by many to be the finest 23 at Mt Arapiles. Delicate and technical moves following the major flake along the front of Death Row pinnacle. I am keen to touch it with my fingies very soon, while it's bearable being in the sun!

Kryptonite Krack (23) ★★: Greg Child, 1978.

A short and desperate old school crack bisecting the wall below Pilot Error. The crag says "Prance up the inverted trench" but I suspect it may be a bit more challenging than it suggests. There are photos in the guidebook of Mike L straining his way up it in a seat belt webbing harness.

Orestes (23) ★★★: Kim Carrigan, 1979.

A delicate beautiful open book corner crack with great pro, and a hair raising traverse at the end. I have already had a go at this myself, and onsited up to the final traverse. What a corner man, I love it so much. After my attempt I went to the climbing store and the guy at the store said that the traverse is so pumpy, that you shouldn't place any gear there, but he said to watch out because if you fall you'll swing back in to the wall and "splat". Thanks Wayne-o.

Milk Blood (23) ★★★: Chris Peisker, 1978. (Sent)

One of the best finger cracks (in my humble opinion) at Araps, it's just fricking awesome. 12 meters tall, it turns on the moment you take your foot off the ground, and doesn't let up until the moment you mantle the top. You couldn't possibly pack anything more into the 12 meters it takes. This is the other of the two I have already sent upon writing this, and it was my very first 23. Finger jams and hand jams and bomber pro. Epic!

Kama Sutra (23) ★★★: Henry Barber, 1975.

This one scares me. Overhung off width crack described as the climb of "101 positions, all of them strenuous." It's got that dark and looming reputation, that makes me intimidated to approach it. Barber lead it with only 2 runners for the whole 40 meters. Kind of insane that bloke.

Despatched (23) ★★★: Mark Moorehead, 1980.

An airy classic tackling the exposed west face of bluff major. A testing traversing line that is apparently hard for the grade and a tad run out. Exciting.

Paladin (24) ★★: Greg Child, 1978.

A masterclass of jamming technique, this one comes in at the top of the list of the "Jamming School" Tick-list in the back on Mentz's and Tempest's guidebook. Short, straight line of desperate jamming.

Die Loaded (24) ★★★: Greg Child, 1978.

Described as a "Bizarre-looking trench" in the guidebook. Sounds like my kinda climb.

Common Knowledge (24) ★★★: Mark Moorehead, 1981.

Not really much known about this one. It's a classic apparently. I'm up for a surprise. Mega 40m pitch of grade 24 climbing.

Dreadnought (24) ★★: Chris Peisker, 1978.

An overhanging crack that is apparently not too hard for the grade! Lucky me. Definitely a summer climb, along with No Exit as it's buried deep in the shady cold Dreadnought Gully.

No Exit (25) ★★: Chris Peisker, 1979.

Sounds like a dream climb. Bouldery crux down low, with a pumpy and demanding crack at the top. Only 15 meters!! Gotta wait till the warm weather rolls around.

Trojan (25) ★★★: Nic Taylor (P2), 1976. Kim Carrigan (P1), 1978.

An absolute mega classic crack on the back of the Pharos, which is famous for its onsite by Louise Shephard. One of the best trad lines in Australia!

Spasm in a Chasm (25) ★★★: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983.

One of the first 25's I ever attempted in my life, and what an experience that was. Me and my buddy Ethan scrambled up the gully to stand on the boulder that is choked in the top of the gully, and I proceeded to stick clip the first bolt and step off this boulder over the top of a 15 meter drop to start my climbing, needles to say I got wigged out pretty quickly and traumatized myself trying to get up the damn thing. I couldn't in the end an left my first and only bail biner on it, since I didn't know about re-threading bolts at the time. Silly little guy I was. Anyways, overhung sport climb with great holds and great moves. Good one for summer in the silly chilly chasm.

The view from inside of Spasm Chasm.

Have a Good Flight (25) ★★★: Chris Shepherd, 1982.

Classic sport climb up the overhung flight deck. Crimpy and pumpy and technical, everything in my style. Looking forward to it!

Debutantes and Centipedes (25) ★★★: Mike Law (Claw), 1981.

Exact opposite of HAGF. I hate it. I am not a powerful climber so this will take me some work to tick. The bouldery crux involves you throwing to a half pad mono off of a really bad stance, then pulling on said mono to reposition your feet, that you can't see because you're so pressed up against the wall. I had 2 days on it this weekend and it just felt HORRIBLE. Not my style at all, but it will force me to become a better climber if I want to send it, and so I will take on the challenge.

Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril (25) ★★: Kim Carrigan, 1979.

Apparently a old fashioned crack climb, my favourite. Looking forward to jumping on this one. Love a classic crack.

Denim (26) ★★★: Kim Carrigan, 1979.

Apparently this was Australia's first 27 before it was downgraded to 26. A striking looking finger crack leading up the left side of denim wall. The guidebook says that you finger lock up the scars from the pegs that aid climbers used, such a cool concept to be able to free climb something because of unintentional damage by aid climbers. The damage isn't cool mind you, but the climbing is.

Yesterday (26) ★★★: Kim Carrigan, 1979.

Apparently Australia's first 28! Before it was downgraded to 26. Another crack. Man I love cracks. Powerful and steep jamming, another Dyurrite mega classic!

Exodus II (26) ★★: Chris Shepherd, 1982.

Another powerful and short climb. I know my strengths and I know strength isn't one of them. I suspect I'm going to have to work hard for this one. A sequence of powerful underclings reminiscent of limestone.

Exodus II + 1/2 (27) ★★★: Dave Jones, late 90's.

Exodus II, on crack. By which I mean adds a bit of crack climbing at the top, plus throws in an additional boulder problem for good measure. FML.

Picking Winners (27) ★★: Kim Carrigan, 1979.

Australia's first real 27? Looks INCREDIBLE. Glassy slab leads to layback flake. layback flake leads to "stomach-churning overhung offwidth." Second pitch is a good hand crack too! Looks like a dream line, but only got 1 star in the guidebook????????

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So there you go, 23 climbs for me to aspire to. Hopeful to challenge myself and come out victorious on the other side. Only time will tell.

Riles - 31/07/2024